Worksharp WS2000 & Ws3000
By Michael Kampen
The one thing that almost every woodworker struggles with is achieving and maintaining a sharp edge. Using a sharp chisel is a pure joy that many woodworkers have never known as most chisels found in workshops are dull and are as likely to be used to open a can of paint as to cut wood. Without a finely honed edge, everything you try from cutting dovetails to paring a tenon can end in frustration.
Achieving this level of sharpness used to require a number of jigs, considerable experience and patience, which often proved daunting to the beginner. Those days are over now that the Work Sharp 2000 & 3000 have hit the market. Pro Tool Manufacturing in Oregon, the same company that brought us the Drill Doctor to keep drill bits in perfect condition, manufactures the Work Sharp.
Both machines are built on the same principle. A motor spins a 6-inch platter to which the user affixes abrasive paper. The WS2000 is a more basic unit constructed of industrial grade plastics while the WS3000 features a metal housing and offers some additional features that advanced users will find useful.
The WS system offers three different sharpening options. The backs of irons and chisels can easily be flattened on the top of the platter and an included tool rest enables the user to sharpen plane irons wider than 2” (1 5/8” on the WS2000). The six-inch platter does a great job but it doesn’t provide as much working space as the larger 8” sharpeners on the market. The angled port under the platter provides a place to sharpen chisels quickly and easily with consistently repeatable results. 
The port on the WS2000 is at a fixed angle of 25 degrees while the port on the WS3000 is adjustable for the following angles, 20, 25, 30 and 35 degrees, which enables you to grind a micro bevel on the tool. On both machines, the iron or chisel is inserted into the channel and a movable fence is brought up to the edge of the tool to keep it perfectly perpendicular to the platter. The bottom of the port also features an abrasive surface to remove the burr created by the sharpening. After the edge has been sharpened on the underside of the platter, the chisel is pulled out of the port. By maintaining downward pressure on the tool, the burr is removed as the back is dragged across the abrasive surface.
Sharpening an old chisel that has been used to open paint cans is a breeze. To begin restoring an old chisel, hold the tool flat on the rotating platter and work your way through the various grits to level the back. With the back flattened, flip the platter over so the abrasive is facing down and place the tool in the guide way. Adjust the fence to keep the tool straight and then slide it up to contact the underside of the platter for a second or two. When the entire face has been ground, switch to a higher grit and repeat the process. Work your way up through the grits until you are satisfied with the edge. When the edge has been finished, the WS3000 gives you the option of adding a micro bevel to the front edge by changing the angle the edge meets the platter. An optional leather honing disc is available to give your chisels a mirror finish and a razor sharp edge.
The actual sharpening is done by PSA abrasive paper that is applied to the platters. There are two different platters that ship with these units. The slotted PC/ABS platters are used with the slotted abrasive sheets. Peel the backing paper off the disc and apply the paper, smoothing it out from the center of the disc to avoid air bubbles, which the tool will catch and tear open. The slotted discs are used with the chisel port on the font of the tool and the sharpening port on the rear of the tool. The port at the rear of the tool allows you to sharpen turning gouges while observing the edge as it is being shaped from above.
Also included with the Work Sharp is a glass platter for use with non-perforated abrasive sheets, which can be sourced from any woodworking supply shop. An optional leather platter is also available for the final honing of the sharpened edge.
While both models are equipped with the same 1/5hp motor, the WS2000 spins the platter at 1750 rpm while the WS3000 spins at a more leisurely 580rpm meaning the tools being sharpened have less of a chance of heating up to the point of damaging the edge being sharpened.
A crepe block is included with the WS3000 to keep the abrasive surfaces clean and to extend their service life. With the machine running, apply the crepe block to the abrasive surface and the soft material will wear off on the abrasive. As it does, the small particles imbedded in the surface of the abrasive bond with the crepe and are removed from the surface of the platter.
Workshops are places filled with wood shavings and dust, and when using a power sharpening tool in a workshop there is always a risk of fire. Prevention is the key to staying safe; always clean out the machine after each day. As the tools are sharpened, small metal particles are removed from the tool and deposited in the machine and the area behind the machine. Like steel wool, these metal particles can burn; when grinding an edge, a hot piece landing on a pile of shavings can result in a fire so be sure that you do not place the machine on a bench where this material can fall out of site and combust unnoticed.
I can highly recommend these two tools based on my experience with them. A novice woodworker would find the WS2000 a cost effective investment in a quality sharpening system, while the more advanced woodworker would appreciate the extra features and added capacity of the slightly more expensive WS3000 This tool is the answer for anyone that has a shop full of dull chisels, lathe tools and plane irons. Both models will sharpen these tools in a predictable and repeatable manner in a matter of minutes. Because the process is so quick and simple, touching up an edge while you work only takes a half a minute and you’re back at work with a perfectly sharpened edge. After a few minutes on the Work Sharp you’ll be able to shave the hair on your arm.